Los Muertos Beach For years Puerto Vallarta's gay
beach has been known as the Blue Chairs, a bar and restaurant located near
the southern end of Playa de Los Muertos, Vallarta's principal beach. The
gay beach now includes a good portion of the "Green Chairs" next door at
Ritmos Beach Cafe restaurant. The clientele at both places sit under the
many round, thatched palapas for shade or lay out on their towels to soak
up the tropical heat and sun. On any day of the winter high season, there
are several hundred gay men sunning, talking, eating, drinking, cruising
and playing in the water. The surf can be rough at times, especially during
the winter months, so be careful getting in and out. To add to the pleasure
of the gay beach, from which all of Banderas Bay is visible, starting in
November until late March a siting of whales or schools of dolphins is
not unusual.
The Green Chairs usually plays a good
selection of music on the stereo: rock, reggae, disco and pop, in english
and spanish; the Blue Chairs tends to be a quieter area. The Green Chairs
also has seating in the open patio areas in the restaurant, as well as
on the beach. There are discussions on the beach about which place is better
or more gay friendly, so check them out and decide for yourself. Both locations
have loyal customers for any number of good reasons. The Blue Chairs tends
to attract a large and faithful gay clientele as it has been the traditional
gay beach area now for some 20 years. I have found the waiters at both
places to be friendly and attentive, and many of the waiters have been
there for years. As in all of Vallarta, it's best to keep track of your
tab and count your change at either place. You've been advised.
Local vendors will approach you at the
gay beach with a wide variety of goods: quality silver from the mines at
Taxco, brightly colored mexican blankets, lace tablecloths, clothing, hand
carved masks, basket work and fresh baked pies and muffins, to name a few
items. You can eat, cruise, sun, shop and chat at the same time. Talk about
a tropical gay paradise! Good buys can be had, particularly if you know
how to bargain. Vendors will often ask more than what they are willing
to settle for, though during the winter season they won't bargain like
they will in the leaner summer months. If you aren't interested, a simple
'no, gracias' will send these friendly vendors on their way.
David Kirby in a recent New York
Times article on gay Puerto Vallarta noted that the crowd at the beach
was friendly, "mostly over 30, and mostly from the Midwest or West Coast.
For a gay beach scene, it was pretty low key. Many there said they go back
to Puerto Vallarta every year, not only for the gay scene but also the
relaxed atmosphere and gorgeous natural surroundings."
Gay men on vacation and at the beach
in Puerto Vallarta tend to be more relaxed and open than they are at the
gay bars, so use this opportunity to make new friends. If you are into
Mexican men, there are some good looking ones around. Sunday is their one
full day off, and many of them spend it at the beach, usually with a group
of friends. There are also a number of hustlers on the make at the beach.
If you take one of them home, be aware of what you are getting into and
also take care of your valuables.
The gay beach is extremely popular
and is not to be missed. For more information on many of the beaches
of Vallarta and Banderas Bay, visit here.
How to Get to the Gay Beach If you have accommodations on the
South Side of Puerto Vallarta it is pretty much a short walk to the Blue
and Green chairs of the gay beach, which is some 200-300 yards south of
the pier on Los Muertos beach. From the hotel zone on the north side of
town, it's a 15-25 minute taxi ride to the gay beach, which may cost 50-75
pesos or more. Just ask the taxi driver to take you to the Blue Chairs
beach or the Blue Chairs hotel on Los Muertos beach. If you take any bus
marked "Olas Altas" on the windshield, get off at the end of the line at
the Lazaro Cardenas Park. You are then within a 10-12 minute walking distance.
Coming from Conchas Chinas or other south shore accommodations, it's easier
to take the taxi because the buses don't run as frequently.
The two weeks of Christmas/New Year
are the most popular time to be in Vallarta (Thanksgiving week is the second
most popular time). Many men return year after year and know each other,
so the feeling of camaraderie in town is particularly strong and it's a
time of many parties and reunions.
Conchas
Chinas At the south end of Los Muertos
beach is a large rocky outcropping. There is a narrow path that leads up
and over. The area around there was once more noted for its gay cruising,
especially around sunset, and is still popular with some. This is the beginning
of Conchas Chinas beach, which is not really one beach but several small,
sandy coves (photo at left) among a series of these rocky outcroppings.
If you are looking for a more private beach experience, you may find it
in Conchas Chinas. The waters are clear and shore fishing, swimming and
small beach gatherings are popular. The beaches are also accessible off
coastal Highway 200.
The hillsides overlooking the Conchas
Chinas beaches have become crowded with luxury condos and villas, which
often have spectacular views. It takes a good five-ten minute taxi ride
up the winding hillside roads before you get to the top of the developments,
but the reward is a view unsurpassed in all of Puerto Vallarta, with the
entire 600 square mile Banderas Bay stretching out before you. The sunset
bars at Descanso del Sol, El Panorama or El Nido have similar lovely panoramic
views.
Unfortunately, the authorities in
Puerto Vallarta and the State of Jalisco have not had the good sense to
control the development in many parts of town and the surrounding area,
so the charming Alta Vista, Conchas Chinas and South Shores in particular
are in danger of losing their appeal, and their palm trees, as more and
more buildings go up along the hillsides. It is well known that Banderas
Bay has suffered for years from the stress of so many people using its
resources, with problems ranging from over-fishing to agricultural runoff.
Los Muertos Beach though is still a lovely tropical getaway and is the
magnet pulling the gay clientele.
Note: We ask our friends and
clients to boycott the jet skis, which pollute the air and water, threaten
public safety and destroy natural quiet. Reports show that at least 25%
of their fuel goes directly into the water and we would like to help the
efforts to clean up Banderas Bay.
Hector and friends at the gay
beach, Semana Santa - Easter week
Aerial view of part of Los Muertos
Beach, showing most of the gay beach with the Blue chairs in
the center and the Green chairs on the right. (photo thanks to Bob and Michael)
Gay beach in the foreground,
the blue and green chairs - January
the colorful gay beach in November
Thanksgiving - Jesse, Neal and
friends
The Men
of Vallarta 2008 Calendar has arrived.
Proceeds will benefit people of
limited resources who are living
with HIV in Puerto Vallarta and
surrounding communities.
Order by calling (322)-223-0535
in Mexico
or 1-866-388-2689 in the US and
Canada.
Conchas
Chinas
